Fabric button making

Hi again,

Today, I thought I would show you guys some of the equipment I have for my embroidery and also my first fabric button!

First, the two embroidery hoops that I own. This image is kind of zoomed in, but the larger one is actually only 5″ in diameter. If you’ve read my last post, you’ll notice that I had A LOT of excess fabric around what I was actually stitching. The smaller one you see there is 3″ and it’s much more suitable for the size that I usually embroider.

I think the only downside is that it’s a bit awkward to hold but it’s fine haha.

EmbroideryHoops

Now my button makers! I bought this from my Daiso store and the button is 38mm in size which is the largest I own.

LargeButtonMaker

My medium button maker which is 27mm in diameter, also from Daiso.

MediumButtonMaker

And my smallest button maker, 23mm in diameter. I bought this from my craft store (Spotlight NZ) and AS YOU CAN TELL THE QUALITY IS VERY DIFFERENT. The backings of the buttons are plastic, and the actual “pusher’s” plastic is different and a lot harder to use.

I bought these first because Daiso didn’t have their button makers in stock at the time – BUT luckily I checked yesterday because they were back in stock hehe.

SmallButtonMaker


Aaand now my first fabric button! The character Pocha Peng is used here because someone commented on my Instagram post that they would hope to see more of it.

PochaPeng button


Using the 3″ hoop, I placed the fabric in and made sure it was taut. If you look closely, you’ll see that I have drawn two circles and then Pocha Peng in the middle.

The larger circle is a template from the Daiso button making kits, and I just traced around the button for the smaller one. I also outline the character in darker thread, filling it in with lighter threads.

Embroidery

Then cut out the larger circle, and I cut out another smaller one to glue over the back. This is to make sure when I make the button, you won’t be able to see the metal underneath as this fabric isn’t the most opaque.

Preparing the fabric

Carefully arrange the fabric face down, and then place the button cover on top of it. (This is what it looks like from underneath)

Placing in button maker

*Excuse the watermark, this was taken from my instagram. ANYWAY, once the button cover is pushed, you have to pull the fabric and gather it reallllly tight. Then place the backing and push it all together.

Pushing the button

Pop it out and you’ll end up something like this.

PochaPeng button


Enjoy!

I hope to make more buttons haha

 

-Cyn

 

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[Tutorial] Needle felt – No-face

Hihi,

Just thought I’d post a short tutorial on No-Face from Spirited Away.
He was one of the first things I made when I was just starting out with needle felting because of how basic he would be.

Set of creations

————-

Materials

Materials

  • Polyfill or some other material to form a base shape
  • White wool
  • Black wool
  • Purple wool

Wrapping base shape

  • I made a base shape out of polyfill, but you can do it with wool if you want
  • You can see in the second image I kind of outlined where his mask would go
  • Wrap with black felt

Completed wrapping

  • You can still vaguely see the outline of where I plan to place the mask

Face details

  • Take the white wool and put it where the mask would go
  • Take black wool and create two dots for his eyes

Completed

  • Take the purple wool and add the remaining details on his mask

—————

And that’s about it.

Really easy right?
Since he’s made of such basic shapes, I didn’t feel the need to go into too much detail with my explanations.

Set of creations

I hope to post up a tutorial for that bear and koala up as well.

Thanks for reading as usual,

-Cyn

[Tutorial] GotG: Baby Groot

Hello hello,,

So here is something I’ve been working on ever since the movie: Guardians of the Galaxy came out.

Groot was such an adorable character, and his baby form even more so :)

Since it was released during the semester, he’s been something I’ve been working on, on and off for a long time.
I finally finished making him about a month ago, and haven’t really been bothered to take photos – until today.

The weather has been pretty terrible in NZ lately, but today seems to be one of those nice cloudless days – which is a nice break from the dark clouds.

As for the process of making him, I admit I’ve been lazy lately in documenting my progress.
Since I do work on-and-off, most of the times, I just don’t bother taking images.

Although, the process isn’t too complicated, so I hope you’ll be able to get the general idea of how I made him.

As usual, remember to have HEAPS of reference images to help you make him as accurate as possible.

———–

Final Baby Groot

————–

Materials

Paints

Acrylic Paints in:

  • Black
  • White
  • Yellow (Lemon yellow)
  • Green (Sap green)
  • Yellow Ochre (Pebeo, Studio Acrylics #27)
  • Raw Sienna (Pebeo Studio Acrylics #36)

Materials

  • Wire
  • Aluminium foil
  • Super sculpey
  • Small pot plant
  • Airdry clay of choice
  • Glaze (Ideally, Matte)
  • Hot glue gun
  • Black half pearls (for the eyes)

——-

Creating Base

  • Create an oval shape with the foil
  • Take wire and fold it over itself, stab the bottom ends (assuming the “rounded part” is at the top) through the middle of the foil
  • Take each end of the wires and bend it down and around the foil to hold the “head” in place
  • Twist the ends around the middle of the wire (you can kind of see it in the first image)
  • Take the clay and wrap it around the foil and bake
  • As you can see, I burnt it… but no matter. To make his head more angular, I added more clay and shaped it as seen above.

Base shape of head

  • Made his head more round
  • Added a strip down the middle as his “nose”
  • Placed the two half pearls in, as reference for his eyes

Adding head details

  • Added a bit more clay to the top of his head
  • Rolled out pieces of clay, and “squished” the ends down (this is to help me blend it into his head easier, so I don’t apply to much pressures and alter his head shape)
  • Add as many of those branches as you want
  • I started using my needle tool to add those details on his face

More or less completed head

  • Here is his head almost completed

Completed head

  • Added more cheek bones
  • Brow bones
  • and more clay down the middle

Different angle of his head

  • Here is his head about completed at this point.
  • Just added some “vines” to the branches at the top
  • Bake without the eyes

So at this point is where I skipped a whole bunch of steps in the images.
I’ll list here what I did in between the top and bottom image:

  • Took some more wire and positioned across the body
  • Added some foil to the body
  • Covered whole body in clay

Remember: You’ll be adding the “root” details after, so the base of the body should be smaller than what you intend the final body size to look like.

Adding roots to body

  • At this point, you just roll out bits of clay and place it on the body. The pattern is entirely up to you
  • I tried to add some variation by changing the width of the “roots”, and also changing the direction of how they grew. I also tried to “layer” them a bit, so it looks like some are coming from underneath others.
  • I also followed the direction of the arms

Most completed body

  • Here he is baked

With eyes

  • And here is what he looks like once his eyes are placed back in.

At this point, I was almost going to just leave him with no hands…. but then.. I added them in anyways.

There was some difficulty, because in the actual movie, his hands are like thin tiny branches, and that was just too hard for me, so I made them bigger.

And another skip in the the whole image process:

  • Added arms
  • Painted him
  • Hot glued his eyes on
  • Painted the pot plant to black and white
  • Filled the pot plant with airdry clay and placed Baby Groot inside.
  • Once the airdry clay fully dried, I got glued Groot into the indent I made earlier, and then poured in a whole layer of Triple Thick glaze, to really seal him in.

Completed

As for the paint:

  • Mix: Brown + Black and use a thin brush to paint inside the grooves in Groots’ face + in between the roots on his body . This is for definition
  • Darker brown where his eyes are for some “shading”
  • Mix: Green + Ochre + yellow and use this dull green to paint the tips of his fingers and tops of his head + dab some on the roots on his body
  • Groot’s body was a mix of the Ochre + Sienna + Black + White

But to be honest, since I don’t really know how to paint things and shade or whatever, I just did anything ahahahah.

It really is up to you how you decide to paint him.

BabyGroot

BabyGroot

And there you are.

I hope you enjoyed this post, and I’m working on some more crafts so I hope I can post a little bit more.

Thanks for reading,

-Cyn

Tutorial : Totoro sleeping in a bottle

Hello hello,

Long time no post again..
Just posting to say that I’m actually on holiday in a week. However, it’s also coming up to my end of year exams, so I can’t promise the amount of new posts you’ll be seeing.

Although, after 22 November I’ll be truely free :D ! YEY

—–

For now, Totoro sleeping in a bottle.

—–

Materials

Materials

  • Brown clay
  • Dark green clay
  • Light green clay
  • Super sculpey
  • Black acrylic paint
  • White acrylic paint
  • Yellow Acrylic paint
  • Miniature glass bottle w/ cork
  • Deco gel or TLS

Adding Base

  • Mix the dark green and light green clay until you get a shade you want (mix enough of this colour to be able to make the whole background)
  • Add a small drop of TLS or deco gel in the bottom of the glass bottle.
  • Take out a small piece of the green clay and place it in the bottom to make the base
  • Even it out using a tool. As usual I chose my ball tool to add that texture

Adding Back

 

  • For this part, I used two different tweezer tools
  • Take some clay and place it in the bottle. Press it into the side of the glass
  • Take any tool you have (like a paintbrush etc), and use that to spread the clay around onto the sides of the class
  • I used the tweezers to help me to this, plus even out the surface

Complted back

 

  • With the rest of the clay, place it in the bottle. There needs to be enough so that you’ll be able to make the indent for Totoro to sit in.
  • You can see some texture I added by tweezers and needle tools

Adding more

 

  • Using tools, create an indent in which Totoro would be placed in.
  • There isn’t a set method to achieve this, so just play around and use angled tools (in my case, Tweezers) to create texture and the shape

Totoro

 

  • Take a small blob of super sculpey and make it so that one end is slightly narrower than the bottom end
  • Take some smaller blobs, flatten them and place it on the base shape
  • Using a very fine needle tool ( I used a real needle), add the texture which would be Totoro’s fur. I used the same technique as from my original Totoro in a bottle

Adding head

 

  • Bake for about 5-10 minutes
  • Then, take some more smaller blobs and create Totoros’ arm and his snout. You only need one arm because you’ll only be able to see one side of him
  • Bake for about 5-10 minutes

Completed

 

  • Take TINY blobs of clay and create his ears ( I accidently made my ears crooked)
  • Bake for 5 minutes

Testing in bottle

 

  • Place it in the background you made. You may have to adjust the indent slightly to that Tototor fits nice and snug

Paint

 

  • Using black, white and yellow paint mix light grey and light yellow

Painting

 

  • Add Totoro’s base coats,
  • I find that in order to get a really smooth coat, mixing the acrylic with water really helps
  • Once everything is as smooth as you like it to be, add tiny details such as his whiskers, eyes, nose and fur arrow things ^ ahahah

Painted completely

 

  • Here he is completely painted
  • You can really see there how crooked his ears were….

Overall

 

  • Add some TLS in the place where Totoro would sit and place him in
  • It looked a little empty so I made a tree stump with the brown clay
  • Bake whole bottle for about 10 minutes

——

Finished

 

Here he is completed !

——-

Overall, it took me about 5 hours to make him ^^
I hope this tutorial was easy enough to understand !

Thanks for reading ^^

-Cyn

 

Tutorial : Animal Cakes

Hi hi,,

Someone has requests a tutorial for my Animal Cakes I made a while back, and looking back at my posts I was surprised I hadn’t posted it yet..

So I know it’s been a while, but here it is !

(I’ve only made one for the Bunny and Elephant because I thought my Tiger one was ugly..)

Animal Cakes

 

—-

Bunny

Materials

Mateirals

  • Yellow Clay
  • Pink Clay
  • Brow Clay
  • White Clay
  • TLS (optional)
  • Pastels (optional)
  • Black clay (optional)

All those optional ones are for adding the face details. You can either make them from TLS + Pastel or make them from clay

Making the layers

  • Roll out all your colors and with the base (in my case, brown) cut / shape it into a circle
  • Do the same for the pink
  • Place the Brown on top of the pink and use the brown as the template for trimming the edges
  • When you trim the edges, tried to put your blade at an angle so the pink ends up slightly small than the brown, but at the same time having the bottom edges line up

Completed layers

  • For the yellow make an approximate dome shape and place it on top of the pink
  • Start shaping the whole ‘cake’ into a more even dome shape. Make sure the edges are all connected smoothly

Rolling out the pink

  • Roll out the pink clay
  • Cover the ‘sponge’ middle + blend away edges
  • Place in the freezer for 15 minutes

On the white clay, cut out two shapes that are white part of the ears + bake for about 10 minutes

Texture

  • Cut out a slice in the cake
  • Those top indents are where I want to place the ears for the bunny. This slice is located on the back of the bunny
  • Use a needle tool and cake texture the surface
  • I placed the white part of the ears

Adding outline

 

  • Roll out the pink
  • Place it around the white part (you may need some TLS to keep it in place)
  • Add details ( I did this by using TLS for the cheeks + mouth + black clay for the eyes) You can use whatever you want.
  • Bake + Glaze

And that’s the bunny completed !

—-

Elephant

Materials

Materials

  • Green clay
  • Light yellow
  • yellow clay
  • White clay
  • Pink clay
  • Black clay

Rolling out base shapes

  • Create a basic dome shape
  • Cut it in half horizontally
  • Roll out the white, thickness is up to you
  • Place it the bottom part of the dome on top of the white and use it as a template
  • Cut around edges for the white

Smooth out edges

 

  • Place the top half of the dome on
  • Smooth out the whole shape, making sure all layers blend smoothly together
  • Roll out the light yellow
  • Wrap it around  the whole cake + blend

details

 

  • Roll out the yellow
  • Using a small cookie cutter, I cut a circle + baked for 10 minutes
  • Place it on the cake to make the ears

Details

 

  • Cut out a slice at the back + texture
  • Add on the face details
  • Roll out a small bit of light yellow, roll up the bottom and then flatten the middle
  • Place it on as the trunk
  • Bake + glaze

And that’s the elephant completed also !

—-

These are very similar to my Totoro cake that I made a while back so I hope this was easy ^^

Sorry for lack of posts, I haven’t even had the time to take proper picture of my new bottle art to post on dA….

Ah..

Soon I will be free (i.e. end of year)

I cry..

Thanks for reading!

-Cyn

 

Tutorial : Polymer clay realistic cake texture with baking soda

So wow, long time no post again, apologies.

It seems I’m catching up on all my bumming around time aahah, but don’t worry, I’m crafting a lot tonight so that I can get some regular tutorials up

———————-

So I’m actually really excited for this post. From the title you can tell what the tutorial is on right?
I’ve actually known about this technique from when I first started from the youtuber “GentlemanBunny”

I tried out it out ofc, but it didn’t end up working. Then about a week ago, I found this website

[Link]

And so here I am trying it out for you guys ^^

Let”s go !

———

Materials

Materials

  • Softener
  • TSL or Fimo deco gel
  • Baking soda (Bicarbonate of Soda)
  • Small container for mixing (in my case, a finished face cream container)
  • Foil
  • Polystyrene
  • Tool for mixing
  • Clay of choice

Soaking the clay

  • Take the clay that you want to be the ‘sponge’ colour and place it in the container
  • Poke some holes in it so the softener can work its magic faster
  • Cover the clay with softener and let it sit
  • Every so often, mix the clay around

At first, I mixed the clay around a lot in the softener and this actually made the dissolving process a lot slower. After I gave up and just let it sit, when I mixed it again, all the clay dissolved much quicker.
As for the softener amount, because my container was slightly larger than I liked it to be, I didnt completely cover my clay up to the top. It was kind of half way up the clay and I just flattened it out. If you can, try to use a smaller container.

Completely dissolved

  • Mixmix
  • And then it’ll look like this once dissolved
  • Add some TLS or deco gel, the amount is completely up to you but make sure you put enough… I think mine was about 1tsp ? Sorry I did a lot of guesstimation

Testing clay

  • I took it out and ‘brushed’ it on the foil and baked it. This is to test if it would fully bake and be pliable
  • And yes it was.. lol

Making cake tin

  • For a cake tin, cut out a template onto the polystyrene block
  • Wrap it in foil
  • Cut the edges neatly
  • Place in the oven for baking.

So apparently, when polystyrene is heated, it shrinks. I didn’t know about this method for making cake tins until that day….
Anyway, I put it on for 130 degrees (celcius) and after about 3-4 minutes, the shrinking process started. Then it only took about another 5- 10 seconds before I took it out.

You can take the ‘cake tin’ out at any point once its shrinks. It just needs to be small enough for you to take it out of the foil without changing the shape.

Baking soda

  • Picture of the shrunken polystyrene circle
  • Adding baking soda
  • I added probably about 2 tablespoons. In the earlier link where I found these instructions, it doesn’t really tell you how much to add. I just added enough until the clay mix was thick like real batter.

If you have enough materials, please feel free to experiment with the amounts of softener : clay : baking soda ratio. I think as along as the mix is semi thick, it’ll rise

Baking

  • Pour ‘batter’ into the mould
  • Bake at normal clay instructions ( 130 degrees C , for about 15 minutes)
  • As you can see, it actually rose !SDKFJKFSHHKJ ! It looks realistic right ?

Rising took about 5 minutes in

Complete cake

  • Here it is out of foil
  • You can see the slightly shiny edges from the foil
  • I trimmed the edges of the cake and you can clearly see the realistic texture ( please enlarge the image)
  • The top really looks like a real vanilla cupcake right ?

MOre images

  • Some more images of the cake and texture (please enlarge)

close up

  • I had enough batter to try again and I did
  • This time, I didn’t trim the top of the ‘cake tin’ that much because I knew it would rise
  • However, you can still tell it rose out of the foil
  • Also, because I put in a lot more of ‘mixture’ and baked it for the same amount of time, the clay didn’t completely bake through

It looked exactly like an underbaked cupcake. You can see that when I tore the foil off,  the bits of clay stuck to it like batter would to a cupcake liner

Second try

Close up of the clay

Cuts

  • Here I cut this cake apart to look at the texture because it was failed away.
  • This texture is also perfect for bread as well.

———–

And that’s it !

An interesting outcome is that the clay actually is flexible. Like its quite soft and when you squeeze it, it just goes back to its original shape again..

This is actually quite an expensive way to make the realistic cake texture but here it is !

I hope you enjoy this, and actually try this out because it’s such a genius idea ,,

Thanks for reading !

-Cyn

Tutorial : [Animal Crossing] Tom Nook

So Hoi

Finally I have a tutorial for you guys ! ^^
And in celebration of the new Nintendo 3DS Animal Crossing : New Leaf release this year, I made Tom Nook!

So who is Tom Nook? He is a “Raccoon Dog”, also known as “Tanuki” in the Japanese version (also a real animal btw, its related to dogs even though they look like raccoons lolol).  He’s basically who you go to to make money and lose money TT..

He buys the stuff you sell, and he also sells you furniture, equipment and the like – and also responsible for the expansion of your house.

So the new change in New Leaf is that you get to have more freedom in choosing what to expand, what rooms to add and WHEN you want to add them. In previous versions of animal crossing, after each expansion, he’d push you to expand more, which kinda made you hate him..
It doesn’t help that it was harder to make money in previous versions than it is in this version.

SO in celebration of Tom Nook’s character being more likeable, I made him ^^

——

Also, just a note, I have recently purchased “Super Sculpey” in beige. This clay is specifically for sculpting models and I really like it. If you have ever used Du-kit (which is a NZ brand polymer clay), the texture is surprisingly similar. I’ve always had this thing against Du-kit because it was never ‘crumbly’ like  sculpey and fimo in that you couldn’t create those realistic textures, but after using super sculpey, I’d say du-kit  would be suitable for model making too.

Fully Completed

Let’s begin!

Please enlarge the images! WordPress automatically resizes mine ><

——

Materials (Sorry for lack of images)

  • Super Sculpey (colour doesn’t matter)
  • Foil
  • TLS
  • Eyepin
  • Any sculpting tools you have (although, you’ll mostly be using your fingers)
  • Sand paper
  • Eyepins

Acrylic paint:

  • Dark Brown
  • Terracotta brown
  • White
  • Dark blue
  • Light blue
  • Green
  • Pink

Or you can make those colours with

  • Red
  • Blue
  • White
  • Green

——

CreatingBase

 

  • So taking the foil, create a round base in which Tom Nook will stand on
  • Roll out some super sculpey , and wrap it around the foil, blending the edges.
  • Take some more foil and create Tom Nooks base body shape – kind of like an egg
  • Roll out sculpey and wrap + blend
  • To create a bigger belly, cut a strip of clay and place it across the middle + blend well

Adding Legs

  • (First two images are the wrapping part of this body)
  • Roll out a small log which will be his legs
  • Cut them , place and blend

3Legs

 

  • Look at that bellay Lolol
  • Okay, so that’s what he looks like standing so far. Please remember to have reference image with you at all times ^^
  • To make him more pudgy, Add more clay on the sides of his legs

More pudginess

 

  • Once he’s got more fat on his two legs, time to even out the front
  • Take a small piece of clay, flatten it out  and place on the front part
  • where the clay meets the gap between his legs, just cut it the clay and blend it out behind his legs

View so far

 

  • What he looks like so far

Making the head

 

  • Take some foil and shape it into his head – kind of like an egg with a turned up tip
  • Wrap with clay and blend
  • Keep adding clay to areas which need it. His head : body ratio is kinda of like 1:1 …. I didn’t expect to add so much clay to his head

Completed parts

 

  • Notice their similarity. I almost freaked out because I mistook the head for his body… I was wondering why his legs suddenly blended together.. TT
  • Place head on the top, if you wish you can use an eyepin to help keep this part extra stable
  • I pushed the head downwards and blended away that excess because Tom Nook doesn’t have that big of a gap between his head and body

Neck

 

  • To even out the neck, roll out a strip of clay, and always when blending, make the edges thinner than the middle. This way, blending is much more easier and you won’t have to push hard on the clay to get it to flatten down
  • You can tell I added more clay to the top of his head
  • He’s so top heavy he cant event stand by himself anymore….
  • Adding the earsHere are some different angles
  • Then roll our two circles and attach them as his ears.
  • Use the end of something round to make the indents for his ears

Cheeks

 

  • He still didn’t look right and that was because his head wasn’t big enough still…
  • Add in them cheeks and blend

Adding arms and tail

 

  • Just like the legs, roll out a small log and attach them onto the body as arms. You can use whatever pose you want
  •  Make a small tear drop shape and attach to his butt (lolol). I used an eyepin to help reinforce his tail

Last minute details

 

  • Roll out some clay and cut into a rectangle – this is his apron
  • Add some eyepins in his legs and make two small impressions onto the base of where you want to place him
  • Then use a needle tool and make these indents into holes
  • Add some TLS and place Tom Nook in place
  • He cant stand by himself so he is leaning on the TLS bottle
  • Also , if you want, use a rounded tool to add texture to the base – as you know , this is my usual technique

Foil reinforcement

 

  • Since he couldn’t stand, had to make reinforcement with foil
  • Made the stupid mistake of baking him without the foil all around him and only the back…

As he was baking in the oven, the clay softened and he got a lot weaker. Because I didn’t have the foil on all four sides he actually fell off his base. I quickly took him out, placed him back on and reinforced all the sides as show in the first two images

More problems

Burnt tail

 

  • Due to my small oven, the top of his head that was closest to the heating bar got burnt
  • Also, as the clay softened and the placement of the foil, his tail also dropped down and baked too low…

Arms

 

  • Removed his previous tail and while working on it, his arm fell off
  • … Please use eyepins to attach them on

Burnt

 

  • After attaching a new arm, I baked him on his back.
  • Made the stupid mistake of changing the heat to top and bottom – ended up with burnt flattened edges on the ears, tail and base
  • Refixed the flattened parts
  • Baked
  • Sanded everything down

Base colour coat

 

  • Adding white base coat.
  • This is to help the actual paint show up in its true colours. Also means that you’ll need less layers to get the same effect

Brown

 

  • Made brown from my primary colours
  •  Dark brown : Red + Blue + Yellow until satisfied
  • Lighter brown : Red + yellow to get a light kind of orange  then + green to get that shade

brown paint

 

  • Panting his main colours

Completed

 

  • Adding the remainging colours
  • He’s on his side because I’m drying the green on the base

 

Fully Completed

 

And here he is fully completed !

Glaze if you wish

——

For acrylic paint, I recommend that you dilute it with some water so that it becomes much more thin and smooth. This way, you’ll get less streaks and more even paint layers.

Also, sand down your figurine after baking. I’m not too experienced with sanding so I just took random sandpaper I had. I think you should go for a finer one so that it doesn’t leave those uneven indents from the texture.

Having a smooth base gives you better end product, so please try to do that. Blend well and sand well – my Tom Nook would have turned out better if I sanded him properly.

—–

-phew- Long tutorial right?
Just letting you know I’ll be back blogging regularly until school starts again!

Thanks for reading!

-Cyn